Hello from the Frankfurt Airport!
I cannot believe that the Noraddin Iraqi Adventure has come to an end. We have made it safely to Germany. It is almost 11 pm here. Our flight boards at 11:20 am, so we have about 12 more hours here. We have found the comfy reclining chairs in the B terminal and have set up camp for the night. I am not much of a camper. All of the chairs near electrical outlets are taken, so I have to hope my battery holds out for a while. My adapter fits in the outlet down the hall a ways, but it seems sketchy how loose the connection is to the wall. Plus, I will have to sit on the tile floor while it charges. Maybe I can convince the not so nice gentleman behind me to forfeit his outlet. We only get free Wi-Fi for 30 minutes, so he will have to get off of Facebook soon. I thought he was going to be attacked a little earlier because he was talking on his phone so loudly while all of these people trying to sleep. Alan is one of them. I told him to take the first shift. He is better at sleeping, so I will guard our stuff and write to you. J
Yesterday was a wonderful day. The weather was perfect with sunny skies and temperatures in the mid to high 60s. Shayan wanted us to meet at her house at around 9 am. We didn’t get home from the restaurant until after midnight, but somehow the early start time did not faze me. I set the alarm for 8 am and got into bed about 4:30 am. I am an insomniac! Getting 3.5 hours of sleep is a miracle for me most night. The alarm went off at 8 am. I turned off the alarm and Alan and I went back to sleep. Oops! Alan jumped out of bed. I checked the time: 8:51 am. Oh dear. I hate being late. If I say I will be somewhere at a certain time, then that is the time I get there. Alan and I rushed to get ready. We had another feast, so we wanted to look nice. I got downstairs by 9:30 am. Tanya was up, but was still getting ready. We called Shayan. She said that she was up and ready to go. We got to her house about 10 am. Tawar was up and making coffee. He said that Shayan was in the shower. I don’t know if that was true, but she certainly wasn’t ready. We wondered through the sitting rooms until she came downstairs. Being on time does not seem to mean much here. I think it is because we are setting unrealistic timelines, but I could be wrong.
The Textile Museum was reopened, so we went there first. It was our last full day and we had gotten very few gifts for people. The museum is known for having a very nice gift shop. So, the plan was to get a good look at the house Shownim was born in and spend a bunch of money buying gifts! The trek up the ramp to the Citadel was more difficult than I remembered from a week ago. It must be the lingering virus because I needed some magic crackers at the top of the hill. The hike was definitely worth it. The museum was full of beautiful rugs. Most of them were made recently, but used traditional Kurdish patterns. I had always assumed that Kurdish people likes more muted colors because Shownim and grandma Sabriya like more neutral colors. I was so wrong! Kurdish people love colors and sparkle! The rugs had every color in the rainbow. They use bright pinks, oranges and blues. Plaid is actually a very traditional pattern, both for rugs and furniture. There was also a display case of hats. Each city or region has a traditional cap pattern. Most has a similar shape, but the colors and patterns vary greatly. There was also a series of mannequins dressed in traditional Kurdish clothes. I brought my outfit with me, but never had the opportunity to wear it.
The area that the rugs were in was the former garden area of the house. In many houses, you come through the front door into an outdoor courtyard area. This looked similar to the guesthouse we had visited earlier with the fountain, yet there was no fountain. There were the same wrought iron railings on the second-floor hallway that overlooks the courtyard. The courtyard has been closed in. Translucent plastic has been installed as a roof and a wall of windows now fills in one side. The glass is covered by a peal-and-stick film with a stained glass pattern on it. It’s not the best choice, but it does provide a soft, warm light to filter through the room. Alan told me that the building was only built in the 1930s. In fact, the neighboring guesthouse that it in a complete state of ruin was only built in 1903. That does not speak well of construction durability if the family had to move out in the early 1950s because it was falling apart. Alan tells me that these building were not built to last. I find that surprising when you consider that Erbil is the oldest, continuous city in the world. If a city has been around for something like 4000 years, then you would imagine people would start thinking long-term. The hill that the Citadel sits on is not natural. It has built up over the years as things were torn down and buried, so the next stage of the city could be built. Apparently, as people have excavated areas of the Citadel, they have uncovered countless artifacts and even piles of gold.
One of the most interesting areas of the museum was a couple posters detailing the long-term projection of where developers would like to take the Citadel. They want to change the Noraddin guesthouse into a fancy restaurant where table surround the fountain in the central courtyard. They want to convert the bathhouse into a luxury spa. Some old homes will be converted into an upscale hotel. Other homes will be returned to functioning condos and apartments. I hope this means that they are also thinking about installing a sewer system and proper electrical. Have I mentioned that there is no sewer system in Erbil, so there is sewage flowing through the gutters on the streets. I know I mentioned the importance of not stepping in puddles! There were mixed feelings in our group about the project. Tanya thinks that the new development will be good for Erbil. Over 90% of the Citadel is in such bad shape that it has been closed to the public completely. Without maintenance, the ruins will just continue crumbling into dust. What good does that do for the city? Shayan is less enthusiastic. She is ok with restoration, but does not like the idea of drastically changing everything and commercializing it. I was telling Alan that I like the idea of restoring everything and making it usable again, but it will just be a replica of what used to be. It is so sad that something wasn’t done sooner to preserve the buildings, rather than having to restore them. The pictures I took of the blue designs painted on the walls were probably not the original decoration. Alan is in agreement with Tanya. We both believe that it must be done the right way. It should not look too modern. It should be restored and given modern conveniences, but still keep the old-world Eastern charm. It will be interesting to watch the Citadel develop over the next 10 to 20 years. These are just ideas so now. They do not have enough money at this point to make it a reality.
Side Note: I was writing so slowly because I was too tired. I took a 4.5-hour nap and feel much better now.
Ok, on to the shopping! The gift shop was so fun. I had been rushed through the bazaar so quickly, that I had not been able to look at anything. Here, there were very few other people there. I was not rushed at all. Price tags were in US dollars, so I actually knew how much things cost. I was in shopping heaven. I gave Alan fair warning. I told him, “I am here to shop. Let me have fun.” I don’t want to describe things in too many details because many of the gifts are for my readers. My first goal was not to buy anything made in China. My second goal was to buy things that were authentic to the region and not too touristy. I did splurge on some things that I know were far too expensive. For example, I bought a display of Iraqi coins that are now out of circulation. One US dollar is about 1200 Iraqi dinars. I paid $10. I know. Boo and hiss at me. It was way too much. I liked them. Alan has a bunch of the new dinar bills, but no coins. They are collector items. We got some wall hangings and table linens. We got several clay medallions with a blue glaze. They are said to absorb the “evil eye” and protect you. You place it over the door in an exposed area for it to work best. I think some of you out there could use some good luck. Expect one coming your way. J I also got a traditional-style Kurdish hat to go with my Kurdish costume. The pants for the outfit are mostly gold with a bright orange pattern coming through the gold. The hat I got matches perfectly. It is made of an orange felt with gold sequins and other gold bling. I put it on and Tanya immediately told me that it looked great on me. Yay! I thought about getting some traditional Kurdish shoes to complete the look, but my pile of things to buy was already so high. The total was $163. I had exact change, but he wouldn’t take it. I guess he only wanted my $20s. I put the extra money in the donation jar. I am uncomfortable taking things I have not paid for.
After leaving the Citadel, we walked through some of the souvenir shops at the base of the Citadel. Some beggars approached me again, but they were not nearly as persistent as the ones before. A man called out to me in an area selling fabrics, but I guess he was only trying to get me to buy some fabric to make Kurdish clothes. I would have been happy to buy fabric. You know how much I love fabric. However, they were all silky polyesters, which are difficult to sew. I really only use simple cottons for my quilts. Alan told me later that he lost track of me for a minute, but he found me quickly. He said that I definitely stand out in a crowd. Most people have dark skin that absorb the light. I am so pale that the sun reflects off of me light a beacon… a bright, American beacon. Tanya doesn’t agree. She says that many Kurds have fair skin and some have blond hair. She thinks it is something else about me that makes me stand out, but she couldn’t exactly put her finger on it. She said it might be my clothes, or maybe the way that I carry myself. I don’t know. I certainly get a lot of stares.
The weather was still so nice. We walked through a park area and then we walked through the bazaar. I was determined not to be as rushed this time around. Most people go to the market with a specific purpose in mind, so they walk right to that shop. My purpose was to stroll and look at the pretty fabrics. People love their sparkles. There are sequins and rhinestones galore! We stopped first at a sweets shop. You can sample everything without having to pay. I trying a sesame-based sweet called halawa. It is topped with chopped pistachios. Nuts and I are not friends, but they are in almost every sweet made. Pistachios seem the least likely to upset my stomach, so I try to go with those and limit my intake. At least it helps me take sweet with some moderation. We also for a grape gelatin candy called sujoke. They hang strings from a bar, then pour the gelatin over the string. I dries quickly, and then they pour on another layer. The one we got has four to five layers and it covered in flour to prevent it from sticking. It tastes interesting and looks so unique.
Our next stop was at a shop that sold beautiful table linens. There were so many beads, sequins and metallic thread that I hardly knew where to look first. One table cover finally really held my attention. It was all in neutral colors of creams, tans and coppers. It was an intricate pattern designed completely from sequins and small beads. It was hand made from India. The shopkeeper was asking $70 for it. It was a set that included two square linens that were about 12” by 12”, table runner that was about 3’ by 1.5’, and a tablecloth that is at least 5’ by 6’. In the states, the tablecloth alone could be $50. It was a great deal. The set weighed about 6 pounds due to the amount of beadwork! Shayan said that it was a horrible deal and offered 20,000 dinars. That is like $16. Oh my. This was haggling at its finest. The shopkeeper was mad. The haggling went back and forth for quite a while. He brought it down to $65. Shayan called aunt Faryal because she is the best haggler on the planet. We soon walked out the door with the linens and without paying a penny. She knew the shopkeeper and she said she would come into the shop the next day once she had decided how much it was worth. Amazing. Aunt Faryal later said that he had actually been offering a fair deal at $70 and that I have a good eye for linens. It was very high quality. She said that it was a gift from her and she would not take my money. Alan’s family, my new family, is so kind and generous.
We were now at our final feast of the trip. There were many of the same faces that I have seen throughout the trip. The only addition was Alan’s cousin, Ahmed, who is Lana’s husband and a very busy businessman. Alan and I were sat at the feast table again, as others were forced to stand around us or eat in the sitting room. Many of the dishes were the same. We had black rice, the tomato/eggplant casserole, and dolmas. I tried some new things, as well. They was the kufta stew that I have had before, but this was a red kufta where the sauce was made with beets. There was a spinach side dish that Tawar came back for more at least three times. It must be a favorite. There was also a veggie side dish made with a plant that has no name in English(at least that Alan knows of) that is called Kangir . It is a pale green plant that looks like a cross between a green onion and an artichoke heart. That might be difficult to picture. I will have to attach a picture when I have more Internet time. It tastes like French Fried Onion Rings, you know, the ones you use to top a green bean casserole. I ate kanafa for dessert and tried a new dessert called “lover’s window.” It looks like a funnel cake and is equally greasy. I made Alan eat the rest. He said that he will need to work out every day for several weeks to work off all of this food.
After lunch, we had tea and later coffee. Alan played the soccer game again. He lost 0-1 against Reno. It was not a horrible defeat. Alan said that he needs to practice, so that when we come back he can beat everybody. We already have a Wii. I am not excited about getting a Play Station. Alan has agreed NOT to get one. Around 5 pm, we said our good-byes to the family. Tawar does not like good-byes, so he left early. Tawar, if you are reading this, it is not really good-bye. It is really just a “until next time.” We are trying for a trip in March of 2013. My mom had a great idea that I should get a student teacher that semester, so that I can take off more time without my students getting behind. Wonderful idea. I need to put out the word to local colleges.
We went home to relax and start packing. Alan took time to set up the wireless router in Tanya’s room, so now it can be accessed throughout the house. Well done, Alan. We still filled all four large suitcases. We brought a lot of gifts, yet weight-wise, we are bringing back even more. Luckily, none of our bags were overweight, so we did not have to pay any additional fees. We had a surprise visit from Saeed and Lara. Lara was going to see us before leaving for the airport, but she has school. Skipping school is not an option. We brainstormed reasons she should get a visa to the states, so she can come with Tara in March. We may say that she is coming to check out schools to be a foreign exchange student. It is her senior year, so she should really just be coming to check out colleges. It sounds more legitimate. We will see. I may write a letter to support the application. We all sat down for dinner. It has been a Magic Crackers kind of day, so I just had some soup and a 7up. Alan and I went to bed early to make up for my few hours of sleep the day before.
Yesterday morning was full of visitors coming to say good-bye. The first was Uncle Nihad. He is such a nice man and always speaks English with me. The traditional kiss-kiss-kiss has been replaced with strong American-style hugs for today. They feel better for expressing how thankful I am for everyone’s love and hospitality. Next came Uncles Namir and Farok. We watched a Turkish soap opera and then a Mexican soap opera. They were so funny, the Mexican one especially. It was about a man that died and hijacked someone else’s body to seek revenge on people from his previous life. Farok watches it is Sweden and was able to give a summary of the plot. Our last visit was from Tara. It was time for pictures. Emotions were running high and there were tears all around. Poor Habibi, so sad. We had lunch before leaving for the airport. Shownim made a super yummy lasagna, using a newer recipe because Alan had not had it before. We also had some black rice and the rice with carrots dish. There is never just one option here! J
Uncle Sarteeb made sure that we got the VIP treatment again when going to the airport. A driver picked us up from the house and drove us the 15 minutes to the airport. Shownim and Mahir came with us and were able to come all the way into the airport. We stopped for security before going to the terminal to get our tickets. Women are taken into a closed room to be searched. I was really felt up, if you know what I mean. I know I look dangerous. J My bag was also searched because the crystal vase that Uncle Farok gave us looked suspicious when going through the scanner. We got back in the car to drive to the VIP portion of the terminal and went through security again. We were able to say good-bye to Alan’s parents. Saying thank you did not seem nearly enough. What does one say that can be in any way sufficient? I have not figured it out yet.
In the VIP area, it felt like we were in America. There were American businessmen drinking large cans of Budweiser and had strong (I think Texas) accents… Oil Men. I never took care of that stamp in my passport that said I had to check in within 10 days of entering Erbil, so I had to pay a 50,000 dinars fine (about $41). A bus drove us the 20 yards to the airplane. In the corridor to the plane, cousin Sarok was there. He works at the airport and came to say good-bye. They had to hold the plane for us while Sarok called Alan’s dad to say we were boarding the plane. We certainly were VIP. No one pressured us to get on the plane. They just waited for us to be done. Amazing.
So, that takes us to now. It is 10:20 am in Frankfurt. We board our plane to Denver in one hour. We have had some good coffee and a croissant. I am already excited about a nap. Good thing that I have a 10-hour flight to make that happen. The end of this trip is bittersweet. I am excited to see Topo. I am excited to see my friends. I am excited to sleep in my own bed with my Temperpedic pillow. I am excited to be able to speak in English again and always understand what is being said around me. I am not excited to leave the comfort of this strong family network. There is so much love. You can never feel lonely. I am not excited to go back to school, or take back on all of the responsibilities of my life. Mahir says that I may wish for that now, but soon I would get board and be ready to work again. I am sure that he is right. I wish I had a few more weeks to know that for sure. J Oh well. C’est la vie.
It was the trip of a lifetime that I predicted. It was so much better than I ever could have imagined. Alan said that I hit a grandslam homerun while I was here… in the bottom of the 9th inning… in the 7th game of the World Series. I am not savvy with sports, but I know that must be good. Thank you for reading and living this with me. I will upload more pictures once we get home. I have taken about 500 pictures. Even though there will no more updates, at least there are still pictures to look forward to in the near future.
Signing off. Love, Megan and Habibi
